Short report from the field trip along the Mekong in Lao PDR, from Luang Prabang to the Cambodian border. The Mekong had been in flood several days earlier. A large boat was generally used, but modes of transport also included tourist buses, dusty pickups and elephants. The 180 km between Pak Lay and Vientiane were covered in four small boats with 1600 cc engines that swerved between rock exposures and went over rapids at about 70 kph. The nature and behaviour of the 8th largest river in the world provoked almost continuous discussion. Discussions in the field also included the possible effect of land clearing on very steep slopes and the proposed plans for dams across the river. The trip provided the opportunity to see the temples at Luang Prabang and Vientiane, and the historical ones related to the hydraulic civilisation that grew up on the river at Wat Phu Champasak and Um Muang.